Robot Baristas Serve Up the Future of Coffee at Cafe X
Robot Baristas Serve Up the Future of Coffee at Cafe X
Automation is eliminating jobs for factory workers and
Uber drivers—will your morning fix soon come from a precision caffeine machine?
WSJ's Geoffrey A. Fowler tastes the new robot lattes at San Francisco's Cafe X.
By GEOFFREY A. FOWLER
Jan. 30, 2017 8:00 a.m. ET
At San Francisco’s new Cafe X, the barista doesn’t make
small talk or sport a hip mustache. But its industrial-strength claw sure knows
espresso drinks.
Cafe X is a new breed of coffee shop pushing the
boundaries of automation both to make food and to serve it.
It is mesmerizing efficiency. Tap your desired beverage,
flavor and artisanal bean on a phone or kiosk screen. That beams the order to
the robot, which uses a Mitsubishi six-axis arm to grab a cup, pump in some
syrup and pop it in front of one of its coffee-brewing cores, which grind beans
and foam milk into an espresso confection. In 22 to 55 seconds, depending on
the order, the arm lowers the cup on a hydraulic pedestal, revealing your
coffee like the Batmobile heading out of the Batcave.
An 8-ounce robot latte runs $2.95, 40 cents less than a
short latte at the Starbucks around the corner.
How is it taste? I’d give the first U.S. Cafe X, a kiosk
in San Francisco’s Metreon mall, a solid A-. Its makers say their tech’s
advantage is consistency. Their robot uses recipes and ingredients tweaked by
local roasters, and can prepare them the same way every time. (It helps that
there are only a half-dozen drinks to choose from.) There is no algorithm for
experience, but like a human barista, the Cafe X robot can adjust recipes on
the fly based on temperature and humidity.
“The art part of coffee is the expertise in creating the
beverage, not how well you can repeatedly do it,” says Cafe X founder Henry Hu.
“That is repetition a robot can do.”
What can’t it do? Make those adorable foam drawings. At
least not yet.
Unlike a human, there are no misheard orders or wasted
supplies. That arm keeps separate orders flying at a pace of two a minute,
cutting back on the rush hour lines that Starbucks has reported hold back
sales. The robot also won’t screw up your name—yes, that is Geoffrey with a G.
The robot cafe even mostly cleans itself, though its
makers had to prove that to the city health department, which was unclear at
first whether to classify it as a mobile restaurant or vending machine. (They
went with the former, although the kiosk doesn’t move around.)
Cafe X, which launched first in Hong Kong and raised $5
million in venture funding, says beyond malls and airports, it is targeting
corporate and college campuses.
The idea of the automat has been around for over a
century, but it isn’t yet clear what roles robots will play in the future of
food. There has been a lot of experimentation lately in San Francisco and
Silicon Valley. A grilled cheese chain called The Melt introduced mobile
ordering and semi-automated tech that lets you know how long it will take for
your food to be ready. Another called Eatsa automates the serving process—your
human-made meal pops up behind a screen with your name on it. Zume Pizza uses a
robotic arm to spread toppings on pies and get them into the oven.
Cafe X isn’t even the first robotic barista. A company
called Briggo launched in Austin, Texas, in 2013 with a machine, tucked inside
an automated kiosk, that produces highly customized coffee on demand.
With Cafe X, the robotic prep is part of the
entertainment. You’re interacting with the robot and watching the coffee get
made. It doesn’t necessarily make the corner coffee shop redundant. Starbucks
blossomed into a global giant for its drinks as well as its safe haven, a
“third place” for people to lounge outside of the house and office.
The Cafe X concept still has to prove itself at scale;
robots come with a high fixed cost that can’t be ramped up just for the busiest
times of day. Cafe X has a human “concierge” on hand to make sure the system is
running and help customers who might be confused.
How wary should human baristas be? “There are a lot of
things we still need them to do, like cleaning and filling,” says Mr. Hu. “What
we don’t need them to do is move thousands of cups around. They’ll have a more
enjoyable job.”
Write to Geoffrey A. Fowler at geoffrey.fowler@wsj.com
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